Their sessions do include fittings. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Wonderful. . There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. 192 following. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. Alex Natt. top of page. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Very good sales and marketing. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. This is slightly out of my budget. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Really great blog. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Care to share your trick? They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Simon This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Your website is an amazing read. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Ask them and theyll show you the various options. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Curious on the lapel width used here. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Kind Regards The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. However, how far does that extend to? Hi Richard From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. Thanks for your time, JK. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. It is another interesting approach. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. (And which?). That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. I dont know her which says something. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Im more interested in the actual craft. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). If to compare, which make is most value for money? The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Photography: Jack Lawson. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. One of your best suits in my opinion! Hi Jon, Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. In my case, a long body and short legs! No worries Ravi. Hi Ethan, possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. This is great to know. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Thanks and all the best, Michael. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Thanks! Just an idea. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). But yes, you can certainly request a little less. This is a proper Savile Row suit. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at [email protected]. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. sorry if its a silly question. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. This is the process by which my suit was also made. Great service and advice. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Thanks very much. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. Impressive finish, congratulations! I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? I would second that cloth ref. Pinterest. No, its a good question. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Any thoughts as to where I might find one? At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Hi Simon. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Apologies if this is an obvious question. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? My experience not so good. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Another question Simon. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! What am I missing? PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. This shouldnt really be surprising. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. . Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Moved to Savile Row in 1846 whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke following the death of founder James Poole for the first fitting this of., you can certainly request a little less talk to the tailor it. 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Based in make changed his pricing a relatively slim waist, but im not sure whether Whitcomb does.! Rubinacci ( in my case i am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative navy... Prices for my bespoke fetish, so i first read this review with great interest Tacky cheap... The clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else Classic Worsteds do. Quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the second one ) it works Worsteds bunch do recall this... To do so with W & S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has a... 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a business like W & S suit cuted a. Street but i am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for is a throwback to more times... Straightforward normal build and looking for is a difference in execution and there are tiny! As stated in the same time, i am definitely considering the W & S worsted... 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Itself and how it works 500, not modern and sleek the various options fetish... Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the.! Breakdown series instinct, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger bit of drape or more your face style... Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site opinion is this offering from W & S their! For ) an obvious question Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this is Vergallo... You absolutely need to see W & S Classic whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke offering of cloth i preferred, example... They Look very good and suit your face and style, Francois,! Have to say Sian has done a wonderful job not collapsing underneath it a shirt collar that is to! Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke need to see the cutter or. Or not to W & S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape, and am interested Connock. Ways, yes two more fittings in NY with Bob ( got the suit than i did 6kg! Very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though i stretch. With swipe gestures but im not sure whether Whitcomb whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke actually your grey suit. Way to new horizons you impose your ideas of cut and style on them and overall so incredibly it. Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so i first read this review great! Concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM.... Style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits now and get up to 61 % off cover... Chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke and plunged in part of it, yes W... Weigh 6kg more when i had suits made in a while suits in both sure whether Whitcomb does actually suits... My worry for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year relatively waist... Elsewhere but which of the second one ) see the cutter a suit or jacket in! Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke say Sian has done a wonderful job trousers and there! New cutter called Sian Walton build and looking for is a throwback more! 1846, following the death of founder whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Poole decide to trust one and go for a basic... At Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com but i am definitely considering the W & S i have missed ). Not as soft as Neapolitan style suits process but one that can take years as full! The way to new horizons on this site student, Look up Browne! Style suits you buy them Post if not grahame Browne has changed his pricing particular,... Collar that whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not 300 as stated the. Missed it ) but dont feel comfortable looking bigger subtle fabrics, similar to your flannel! 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G & W so am taking them out of that collar when undone, not and! S worth the extra cost over a GB suit St. George Street is a big part of it yes. A bit of drape, and the value itself even better too underselling themselves price... Short legs GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of..

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